COIBA National Park
The Coiba National Park consists of a group of Islands in the Pacific Ocean south of Veraguas Province. The park covers 270,125 hectares, of which about 20% is land, the remainder is marine and contains many coral reefs, the largest of which covers 135 ha.
Coiba Island was a penal colony from 1919 to 1991, when it was declared a National Park. As a result, human impact on the area has been very limited and was restricted to the prison and its immediate surroundings. The remainder of Coiba Island, the other islands and the surrounding sea remained virtually untouched. Most prisoners were released (The Noriega regime used Coiba mostly to detain political prisoners and homosexual men) or moved to other prisons, but a few opted for a job with ANAM as caretaker of the prison and its surroundings.
The area around the prison was used to grow food by and for the prisoners. The Panamanian government introduced cattle to Coiba to supply food to guards and prisoners. The descendants of these cattle still roam the area and removing them appears to be near impossible because of numerous bureaucratic hurdles. As a result, the area around the ancient prison looks like a rural area rather than a forest.
The island Coiba (50,314 hectares) is the largest island, not just of the archipelago, but of all Panama. It is the only island in the park with permanent buildings (including the ruins of the prison, the police station and the ANAM buildings and biological stations) and permanent human presence. The islands Jicaron (2002 ha), Jicarita (125 ha), Canal de Afuera (240 ha), Afuerita (27 ha), Pajaros (45 ha), Uva (257 ha), Brincanco (330 ha), Coibita (242 ha) and all the other small nameless islands, islets and keys are free of permanent habitation.
Coiba National Park has been declared a UNESCO World Natural heritage site because of its biodiversity and its important role in the Eastern Pacific Tropical Ecosystem. The Coiba archipelago is part of a huge marine corridor that includes Malpelo Island, Gorgona Island, Cocos Island and the Galapagos Archipelago. Many pelagic animals such as leatherback turtles, whale sharks, manta rays, dolphins, marlin, sail fish and tuna depend on islands like Coiba for their survival.
The marine biodiversity is therefore the true gem of Coiba, with 69 identified species of fish, 13 types of crustaceans (crabs & lobsters), 45 species of snails and 12 species of echinoderms (sea urchins and sea cucumbers). Snorkelling is a good way to get an idea of the incredible richness of Coiba waters. There is a small but beautiful reef around Granito de Oro, where you can see many of these animals, and with a bit of luck you will also see turtles.
The seas of Coiba are also the habitat of the humpbacked whale , the orca , the pan-tropical dolphin and the bottlenose dolphin. In fact there are records of 19 more cetacean species that occasionally visit Coiba waters. During the boat trip to, around and from Coiba, you are likely to see dolphins and devil rays and possibly sailfish. From July to early October, there is a chance to see a humpbacked whale, these whales visit Coiba waters to give birth and mate, so if you are lucky, you might se a mother and calf, or a small pod of females accompanied by a male.
The islands are home to 36 species of mammals, 39 species of amphibians and reptiles, and 147 species of birds. Some of the land animals have been isolated from the mainland for so long that they have evolved in different species. The Coiba spinetail (Cranioleuca dissita) for example, is a bird that only occurs in Coiba and nowhere else in the world. Some biologists consider the agoutis on Coiba as varieties of their mainland relatives, but others argue that they are separate species. The spider monkeys and howler monkeys of Coiba are also full species. Interestingly the howler and spider monkeys inCerro Hoya NP belong to Coiba species rather than the mainland species you see in the rest of Panama.
Coiba is the only place in Panama where one can see flocks of the threatened Scarlet Macaw (Ara macao). The best place to see them is Playa Quebrada, at the other side of the island. The Coiba spinetail is usually found along the ‘Los pozos’ trail near the prison. The agouti is present near the ANAM camp, the howler monkeys are often found along the ‘los monos’ trail.
To make the best of your visit, we suggest the schedule below.
Your activities or proposed program
Day 0:
You arrive at Heliconia Bed & Breakfast/Tanager Tourism and confirm logistics and plans with the payment. You can ask any question you can think of and we shall try to answer.
Day 1:
• 6.30 – 7.30am Breakfast and packing of snacks/sandwiches
• 7.45 – 8.30am Malena Beach: boarding the boat
Departure depends on tides and weather; the earlier the better.
• 3hrs boat trip
You go along Cebaco Island and thereafter a little while along the beautiful south coast of Veraguas, making a turn south towards Coiba. Watch out for dolphins, devil rays and flying fish.
• 11.30am – 1.00pm Arrival and registration at Coiba Anam Station.
ANAM provides dormitory style accommodation. Ask the ANAM guards for the viewing points and how to get there and ask for the seaside path that leads to Boca Grande Estuary. Together with the other people in the group, Anam guards and your captain, you can adapt the schedule. Try not to change all the time and be clear so that everyone’s wishes can be granted.
• 1.30 – 4.00pm Swimming and snorkeling near the Anam station
• 4.15 – 6.00pm Walking a trail near the Anam station – ask them for guidance
• 6.30pm Cooking and eating dinner and relaxing
Day 2:
• 6.30 – 7.30am Breakfast & sandwich preparation for lunch or other snacks & drinks
• 7.45am Leave by boat to Damas Bay. Walk los pozos trail and visit the penal colony
Note that the vegetation around the penal colony is the most disturbed on the island. If some people in the Group are not interested, they could be dropped of at one of the trails and picked up later. Make sure to be clear on the time and watch the tides!
• 12.00pm Arrival of the full group at the Granito de Oro islet to snorkel and swim.
The Group can eat their pick nick lunch.
• 2.30pm Walking trails – check with your captain. Other beach visit. Or…
• 5.30pm Arrival back at the ANAM station to cook, eat dinner and relax
Day 3:
• 6.30 – 7.30am Breakfast and preparation of snacks and drinks for on the boat.
• 7.30 – 9.00am Final swim or walk – and do not forget to say hi to Tito.
• 9.00am Departure from Coiba
Confirm with the captain – depends on weather and tides
• 12.30 – 13.00pm Arrival in Malena where you can have lunch in one of the restaurants.
Coiba National Park tour details
We have been four years in Palmilla and worked hard to establish good
relationships with the fishermen from Malena and Palo Seco and with
ANAM. We can therefore offer trips at a reasonable price and can book
at relatively short notice. However, the logistics are somewhat
complicated so you have to book a week in advance.
We offer a package that consists of one night and dinner at our B&B on
the eve of departure and two nights at Coiba. You return on the third
day around midday. You can use a shower at our B&B to refresh before
you leave, if you leave. A boat with skipper and a mate/guide is at
your disposal during your stay at Coiba (You need a boat to get to the
good reefs and trails). We normally stick to the programme mentioned
above, but sometimes changes are necessary because of tides, currents,
the weather or other circumstances. We can also adapt the program to
your specific needs or priorities. Food and non-alcoholic drinks,
entrance fees, accommodation fees, the use of fins, mask and snorkel
are also included in the price of the tour. If you would like to take
some beer, wine or other drinks along, let us know and we will make
sure they are on board for a reasonable price.
The costs for the tour depend on the number of participants and we can
take 2 to 6 participants. Currently we charge the following prices
for the package:
2 people: $ 450 pp
3 people: $ 400 pp
4 people: $ 350 pp
5 people: $ 325 pp
6 people: $ 300 pp
These prices are subject to change.
Your stay on the Island
We have booked you a bed on the main island Coiba in the buildings of ANAM. They charge for every foreign tourist $20 park entrance, and $20 per night per bed (2010 prices). They provide clean bedding and towels but do not expect a high standard. There are rooms with up to 6 beds. We expect you to register with ANAM upon your arrival and pay the fees. We register our tourists under the name of Heliconia Bed and Breakfast.
We do not encourage camping on any of the beaches of Coiba Island unless this is for scientific research. But we stimulate picknicks, whereby we try with you, not to harm this pristine environment and request you to be very careful with your waste. Note that not all waste is burnable and that some type of waste should be taken back in the boat. Check with the Anam Station and your skipper.
Coiba Island National Park Video © anai26 YouTube
